fbpx
Eats

Food Culture | Claudio’s Ristorante

I always enjoy Anthony Bourdain’s unique and slightly cynical take on a world he does not particularly relish, except when he encounters authenticity in food and people. When he traveled to Rome for his No Reservations series, the show began with a black-and-white take of Tony sitting on a patio in old Rome, oozing self-deprecating humour. The unmistakable reference to films of the ’50s and ’60s pointed to how Rome occupies a special place in the heart and minds of those who love movies.

Bourdain was referring to the great Italian movie-makers in the post-World War II period. Great directors such as Luchino Visconti, Federico Fellini, Antonioni, and many others told authentic, sad, and difficult stories of real people doing what they could to survive, hence the name of the genre: Neorealism. Actors were mostly non-professional, adding to the grittiness of it all. Artists who led this artistic movement were supported by the best and largest studio outside Hollywood: Cinecitta, which, by the way, was where Ridley Scott’s Gladiator was mostly filmed.

Rome was called the eternal city because people throughout history thought that no matter what might happen to the world, Rome would always endure. Now, you ask, what does this have to do with a fine dining restaurant in our ambitious city? Everything, friends. Everything.

Hospitium is a concept of hospitality that began in ancient Greece and continued in Rome. Claudio Andreis is a true Roman, in fact and at heart. With his wife, Kristine, he decided six years ago that Hamilton was the perfect place to share a culture of hospitality as ancient as Rome.

From day one, it was a labour of love and authentic dedication. The partnership was structured with a clear division of labour for the couple. Kristine would run the kitchen, Claudio the front of house. At the corner of Jackson and Catherine Streets stands an elegant building housing this fine Roman Ristorante. The dining room is not large, but gives a sense of quiet elegance and of place, allowing diners not only an opportunity to enjoy great food in a classic décor, but also to remember the occasion that brought them here: a christening, a confirmation, a celebration of some sort.

Dining RoomFrom the start of this venture, the constricting size of the kitchen was no obstacle for enterprising Kristine. She would produce a great variety of dishes from the simplest pasta to the most complex entrée. Her preparation is always precise and the execution truly professional. You may ask any of the regulars who keep coming back for that marinara sauce, succulent osso bocco, or lamb shanks slow cooked to perfection.

What other dishes could one expect to find here? Rabbit with pappardelle (not common in these parts but a delicacy in old Italy), steak, caprese salad with authentic mozarella di bufala … Then winter brings its range of soups such the Tuscan bean, so rich and tasty it could be considered a main course. The osso bucco is a generous veal in-bone with a rich demi-glazed sauce and delightful bone marrow, for those who enjoy such fare.

Osso Bucco

Kristine is very humble but talented and experienced. She paid her dues working kitchens in Toronto with great such great chefs as Mark McEwan. But, always humble, it’s only when asked where she learned such great cooking techniques that she makes mention of this. She is also hard-working. When asked how she made a consommé soup of mushrooms, she explained that the dish required, on average, 16 hours of hard work resulting in a delicious clear broth that would delight the most discerning of palates. Using egg whites, she would patiently clarify the broth one layer at a time. That spells true dedication to the culinary arts. The pasta dishes are served Italian style, very much al dente with different sauces to match. Kristine’s marinara sauce is excellent and her simple penne has satisfied many over the years either as a side or as a tray to be had at a party.

Claudio, a raconteur extraordinaire and gentlemanly host, leads this husband and wife team with panache and class. His namesake restaurant was recognized for its authenticity with a certified plaque showing the words, “Ospitalita Italiana” (“Italian Hospitality”). The plaque is proudly displayed on the vestibule’s wall facing the entrance. This recognition is no mean feat, as it requires a rigorous vetting process from the organization’s head office in Italy, ranging from the sourcing of ingredients and products to the kitchen techniques. Claudio’s Ristorante won its certification hands down and has since joined the handful restaurants who received similar recognition in Ontario.

Wine Bar

When I asked Kristine and Claudio what keeps them going strong, they candidly shared about their love of all the people who believed in them from the start, people who were so happy to see this building being used once again as a fine dining establishment. So maybe one can imagine, although a long way away from the eternal city, that here is a small yet compelling Cinecitta studio. But instead of movies, Claudio’s Ristorante delivers a real human experience, contributing to the cultural renaissance of this great, ambitious City.

 

TRY IT YOURSELF!

Claudio’s Ristorante
92 Jackson St E, Hamilton
(289) 389-6699
www.claudiosristorante.com

Comments 0

There are no comments

Add comment

Share post

Links
Social

© 2024 Robert Cekan Professional Real Estate Corporation. All rights reserved.