Connecting Land And Sea

The Flavours of Aveiro Combine At Wild Orchid Restaurant

Jorge is the proprietor and chef of Wild Orchid restaurant on the North end of James Street North. As they celebrate their 20th anniversary this coming June, let’s take a look at what makes Jorge and his venue tick.

Jorge’s family originally hails from a Portuguese city called Aveiro. Its culture is worth exploring further as it frames the logic behind Jorge’s menu. While building a list of dishes that are faithful to that area, he also added new ways to satisfy local tastes and expectations.


A historical city in the central region of Portugal on the western flank of the Iberian peninsula, Aveiro has been dubbed the Venice of Portugal due to its system of canals and boats. Palm trees complement the truly beautiful locale’s traditional Portuguese architecture – in particular when it comes to churches and cathedrals – and more recent 19th century Art Nouveau façades. Both styles translate into elegant ornaments and curves, giving streetscapes their inimitable pleasant flair at any time of the day but even more on a bright, clear morning or at sunset.

Located by the Atlantic Ocean, Aveiro has a long maritime tradition, so you would expect fish and seafood to be the central ingredients in the local culinary culture. Of course, cod is the mainstay, it is front and centre of the local cuisine and for that matter in the whole of Portugal. People often remark on how amazing it is that the national fish of this country is sourced so far away from its coastlines. Yet cod has been perfected in the way Portuguese cuisine uses it in so many different dishes and in so many ways, from steamed on the bone to grilled to fried to baked, and so on.

For Jorge, bringing the world he is familiar with to Hamilton was the first goal he had in mind when planning the opening of the Wild Orchid. His decision to “go for it” was made in late 1995. A dream he had nurtured for years was finally coming true.

Why call it “Wild Orchid”? Jorge was inspired by his aunt’s name but to make sure no inference is made as to her personality, note that he is the one who added the “wild.” The décor of the restaurant is uncluttered taverna style with wooden tables and chairs. It is comfortable, relaxed, and inviting. The atmosphere is enhanced by being sparsely lit, allowing some privacy even with open space. In the back- ground, Brazilian and Portuguese music provide an additional touch of authenticity.

Like many of the brave and talented chefs reviewed in this column, Jorge learned how to cook from his mother but learned how to manage a kitchen from all the jobs he had in the restaurant industry around Hamilton. Along the way, he became skilled at prepping, managing perishable food supplies, and being attentive to customer feedback.

From the onset, Wild Orchid was focused on developing signature dishes and giving them names honoring actual places. Hence we have Pao de Aveiro (Aveiro Bread), a handmade bread baked with slices of chorizo sausage rolled inside that releases a delicious, smoky flavour with each bite. Or Carne Aletanjana: pan-seared pork and clams topped with lemon. Alentejo is a Southern Portuguese area with very hearty wines are made from sun-soaked grapes. When it all started, fish was mostly fried but in time, grilled options were added. Then about two years ago, a charcoal barbeque was installed, propelling the flavour of the offerings to another level.

The menu is extensive, featuring both English and Portuguese, and should satisfy the most discerning palates. There are a number of groupings: Breads, Salads, Appetizers, Seafood Mains … One section is dedicated exclusively to cod dishes, with five options available! Then you have meat dishes, from the famous Portuguese Beef a Casa to roasted rabbit and lamb, and of course chicken and pork. The are also group platters and a lunch menu option. And I almost missed the Massas (pastas) and Cataplana (a traditional seafood stew in copper cookware). One thing always amazes me over the years, and that is the consistency in taste and balance in seasoning.
The wine list offers enough to choose from with good value Portuguese wines, both red and white either by the glass or the bottle. And with good weather comes the use of the patio, another feature worth experiencing on a lazy sunny afternoon. You may want to try the sangria? This place has truly become a destination worth visiting often.