CEO Erin Dunham demonstrates strong female leadership in Hamilton
- Kara Savas
- 07 Dec 2019
If you frequent the downtown core, chances are you’ve dined at some of the restaurants that have been at the forefront of the Hamilton restaurant renaissance that we all hear about so much. The Mule, Odds Bar, and Rapscallion (RIP…for now…) are among some of Hamilton’ most beloved spots.
Behind those names is Erin Dunham, who is the CEO and one half of The Other Bird hospitality group, along with business partner and Executive Chef Matt Kershaw.
When meeting Erin for the first time, reactions can be mixed. Many of the less progressive types in her business dealings view her as a triple threat; she’s young, she’s blonde, and she’s (gasp!) a woman.
In an industry that can be ruthless to say the least, Erin has used her role to affect positive change — with a side of wry humor.
Erin’s industry experience goes back to the age of 13, when she took her first job in a kitchen. At this time, she was growing up on the Hamilton mountain, taking 3 city buses to get to Cathedral high school before switching to Sir Allan McNab for the latter part of high school. Hospitality was not a lifelong dream — it was instead a means to get her through Western University, where she was studying English and Literature. She worked three restaurant jobs, like so many university students do, and aspired to be a writer.
After graduation, she successfully published two novels, a talent of which she is proud of, yet refreshingly honest about (“my first two novels were garbage, I am halfway done writing my third though and it’s definitely the best”).
However, after her first publisher cheque came in a little (a LOT) lower than hoped, she realized she needed to further her education and switch gears. She completed her MBA and it was around this time that she would meet Chef Matt; this would set her on a path that would begin with being hired by him to help open The Alex. Through that experience, she could see how well they complemented each other and the potential to affect positive change in the industry. Their partnership, and The Other Bird, was born.
The hospitality industry hasn’t historically had the healthiest reputation in terms of how women are viewed and treated. Many who have worked in a kitchen, as a server, or behind a bar will attest to this. Since Erin is now on the business end of things, it’s interesting to hear her perspective on how women in leadership positions in an industry like hospitality are treated. Things are improving, but it wasn’t always this way. “We would go into meetings about renting a place or an investment, and they would directly talk to Matt every time. They wouldn’t even look at me. Matt would be like ‘Why are you talking to me? She’s the CEO, talk to her!’” Erin laughs, “I was even mistaken for his secretary recently.” Cringe.
Erin does assure that change is coming. For those working for The Other Bird and many other establishments in the city, it’s already here. Erin loves sharing the tangible evidence of this: hearing men that she works with talk about things like how to effectively instill confidence to a female in a management role, or watching female chefs coming through the ranks and not being pigeonholed in a position that restricts their potential.
There’s a good chance this positive change occurring around her is due to her effective yet humble example. When I ask her about the best compliment she’s received, Erin replies that the ultimate is when someone asks her to mentor them or for advice. “It means they’re looking at what I’m doing and they admire it to the point of wanting me to help in the direction of whatever they’re working… that they trust me and my opinion, my direction.”
Of course I had to ask about the biggest criticism she ever received. For this one, Erin gives an example that’s pretty relatable to most business owners: harsh, unconstructive criticism. The kind that is often cruel, and usually about things that can’t be fixed. When I comment on how review-crazy we have become in a technological age (giving birth to the ‘troll’ era), Erin readily agrees. “These people don’t realize that as a small business owner or entrepreneur, when you work so hard to create something that’s very personal, how deeply hurtful some of these comments can be. People can be pretty ruthless.” Luckily, these are few and far between, and it’s only because she cares that much about the things she has worked hard on and is proud of that she takes these things to heart.
Many will remember when Rapscallion opened, on the corner of John St. and Young St. back in 2012 — it created a ripple in the downtown core with its unique take on food and drink, and a cozy, offbeat atmosphere. It became a favourite with diners seeking something a little different, with items like pig ear poutine, and halloumi tikka masala on the menu. Little did I know that it was Erin’s first kick at opening a restaurant. “We opened it with $5000, did all the grunt work themselves, from the ground up. It was definitely our labour of love.” While the restaurant did close earlier this year, two good things came from it – one being the recently opened Bon Temps (one of Erin’s favourite Hamilton restaurants, and not because of location sentiment), and the other being that Rapscallion is spreading its wings to a bigger and better location on James Street North in the new year. This time, with a bigger budget and a few years more experience under their belts.
Speaking of pride, I comment on the staying power of their restaurants despite the restaurant industry being a notoriously fickle one. Erin credits it to the culture established within each workplace. Each restaurant is personable, fun, unpretentious — much like herself. It’s no surprise, then, to learn that she is the person responsible for the creative design and execution of the restaurants that she and Chef Matt open (as well as the future focus and growth of the company – NBD).
“We try to create an environment that people want to be a part of, that we would want to be in,” Erin explains. “We create this culture with our staff; we hire people who are hospitalitarians. They’re in the industry because they want to be, they’re passionate about it.” When asked about the elements that make up the ideal dining experience, Erin’s answer is simple: all the senses are hit. The quality of fare is a given, but beyond that; the tables are clean, lighting is right, the music selection and volume are properly adjusted. “When people leave and they love it, but they can’t put their finger on why. They love the food and service obviously, but the little things that colour the experience beyond the actual dining and make it an experience.”
We discuss dining beyond Hamilton; for Erin, Montreal is a top culinary destination. When asked what or who inspires her most, Erin names Martin Picard’s Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal. “Matt is obviously so inspired by the menu, which is amazing, but for me it’s beyond that. It’s the most creative, interesting, quirky dining.” When asked to share her favourite dining experience ever in the world, Erin names Le Club Chasse et Pêche, also in Montreal. Again – ambience, vibe, ingenuity.
Beyond work, Erin makes a conscientious effort to carve out time for the other loves in her life, which include her beloved dogs, and traveling. She still writes, and also paints. In fact, a personal goal of hers for 2020 is to have an art show, something that will be both exciting and a challenge.
Her favourite book is Jitterbug Perfume, by Tom Robbins. Her description of Modern Love on Amazon Prime was the deciding factor in me binge-watching it this weekend. Her favourite places that she has traveled to are Florence (she spent 3 weeks there in March), and Ireland (“the people are just amazing”). Her cocktail of choice is a French 75, and for Christmas this year she is asking for Chef Matt to put caviar on the new Rapscallion menu.
When asked what advice she has for young people, particularly females, aspiring to be in a position of leadership, Erin pauses thoughtfully. “Know what your boundaries are because you’re going to be tested all the time…work within them, and be proud to work within them. Be who you are, but don’t be an asshole.” That’s some darn good advice!
Comments 0
There are no comments
Add comment