Like a Fine Wine
- Mel Gedruj
- 27 Oct 2015
Extra-virgin olive oil is the highest quality of olive oil, and must comply with chemical (acidity, peroxide value, etc.) and sensory attributes established by the International Olive Oil Council. Beyond those basic requirements, the rise of passionate producers in search of excellence in extra-virgin olive oil has given rise to a new class of premium products. A group has defined super-premium olive oil with far more stringent requirements.
Excellent extra-virgin olive oil is made from olive cultivars crushed within hours of harvesting, usually hand picked to avoid damage, then stored with nitrogen on top to prevent polyphenols (antioxidants) from evaporating. That is why these oils smell like fresh cut grass, taste bitter and give a burning sensation in the throat — all attributes of great extra-virgin olive oil. Let me share with you three of the best that Italy has to offer, all sold at Picone Fine Food in Dundas. They are Planeta DOP Val Di Mazara and Cutrera Primo, both from Sicily, and Frescobaldi Laudemio from Tuscany. While the Cutrera is a monocultivar the other two are blends.
DOP is the highest agricultural designation in Europe, and only about one per cent of Italian extra-virgin olive oil is DOP. The descriptor translates as Designation of Protected Origin, signifying that the ingredients are sourced and processed within a recognized geographical area. You will note that I will not worry about the colour of the oil, as it has nothing to do with quality and depends entirely on the olive cultivar used. That is the reason that professional tasters use blue glasses.
Picone Fine Foods is doing its part in carrying the very best extra-virgin olive oils the world has to offer from passionate small producers who are dedicated to blending tradition and modernity in their quest for excellence. It is a discerning consumer’s role, if truly committed to high-quality foods and ingredients, to support retailers such as Picone, who in turn support the supply chain.
One last thing to keep in mind, great wines may be enjoyed when they age, great extra-virgin olive oils are best when consumed fresh.
Let’s have a look at these gems.
FRANTOIO CUTRERA, SICILY
Olive cultivars: Tonda Iblea
Harvest: 2014 – Best before date October 2016 Retail price: $26.99 | Size: 750 ml
This extra-virgin olive oil won a gold award in the 2014 New York International Olive Oil Competition in the “robust” category. Robust would equate to “intense” or even “full-body” when describing wine. It has an intense smell with hints of fresh cut grass and tomato. When tasted, all the flavours are confirmed and the lingering sensation of a pleasant taste remains. This oil would pair with grilled and roasted meat, or on tomato and mozzarella di bufala topped with basil or simply on bread and grilled vegetables.
MARCHESI DE FRESCOBALDI LAUDEMIO, FLORENCE, TUSCANY
Olive cultivars: Blend of Frantoio, Moraiolo, and Leccino
Harvest: October 2014
Best Before: May 2016
Retail price: $59.99 | Size: 500 ml
Frescobaldi is an iconic Tuscan winery mak- ing wine since the start of the renaissance. This extra-virgin olive oil is the result of
a consortium of Tuscan producers, led by Frescobaldi, who decided to implement stringent quality methods to produce the very best oils with the best known olive cultivars in the region: Frantoio, Moraiolo, Leccino. Where Frantoio produces such an intense flavour it requires the other two to deliver balance somewhat akin to what the Bordeaux wines achieve by blending Merlot with Cabernet Sauvi- gnon. The olive trees are at least 500 metres above sea level.
To the nose, there is an elegant smell of fresh cut grass and of olive. The taste is intense and bitter with a pungent (peppery) finish with a burning sensation. This oil would pair well with Tuscan-style dishes, bean soup, white bean salad and, above all, grilled steaks. The bottle’s nozzle restricts the flow of oil due to its expensive price, so the bottle should last a while if used sparingly. The intensity of the flavour helps.
PLANETA, DOP VAL DI MAZARA, SICILY
Olive cultivars: Blend of Nocellara del Belice, Cerasuola and Biancolilla
Harvest: 2014 – Best before date April 2016 Retail price: $25.99 | Size: 500 ml
These olives are native to Sicily and among the best known. Planeta is an award-winning winery, as it is often the case olive trees are located next to vineyards on the same type of soil. The Planeta olive oil is fresh, to the nose it smells like fresh grass, with a hint of tomato and artichoke. To the palate the tomato taste is confirmed along with a citrusy feel. This is a delicate oil that expresses its terroir like a great wine would, hence the recommended food pairing would be with salads, grilled fish and seafood.
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